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Were the masseuse’s words as she dug deep into the muscles of my back, shoulder, neck, eye sockets, everything. Tomorrow and tomorrow. “I understand, I understand. But tomorrow and tomorrow is good. Is good. I understand and I think you understand too, yes?”

I was at “Sen Spa Masszazs” this afternoon, having picked a spa from my guide book and ignoring the pricier options my hotel’s front desk had suggested. Walking about in quietly beautiful streets, I finally found the spa. I was shown into my room and what followed was 45 minutes of Thai massage. Fortunately after all the painful business, there was a good massage too, with a balm and everything. Enough to make me want to ask for a foot massage at the end during which I even managed some shuteye. They covered me with a blanket. My young masseuse woke me up at one point and introduced me to her mother. Which was a bit odd but amusing.

Before my spa escapade I had lunched at Govinda, with high expectations of a superb Indian spread. There was a Hungarian option and an Indian option. I opted for the latter and got a Hungarian interpretation of Indian food. Not bad but I don’t think they had used masalas at all. But no cribbing really, I was happy to have veggie food without it being a salad or containing copious amounts of cheese.

Walking about Budapest is nice. The buildings here are really, really beautiful. And it’s not just important buildings that are lovely but even residential ones. It all seems like it’s getting slightly frayed but the past splendor of the Empire is very much visible. The marks of communism are present too but don’t take away as much from the beauty as they do in some other cities.

I walked along the Danube post-spa, whatsapping with Vinit – almost feeling he was with me. Then crossed the Chain Bridge over to the Buda-side and considered for some time to take the funicular up into the Buda hills. But in the end decided not to. Maybe I am travel weary for now? The old people in Budapest seem sad. I wonder why. I saw an old man playing a pink plastic keyboard on the street and felt very sad. He looked like he’d seen better days. Just like the city.

A woman crossing over to Buda - hope Orbán is not on her mind...

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