Sofia looked lovely to me last week in the autumn weather, shedding its leaves. A lot of people argue it isn’t beautiful but I find it hard to not see even the slightest charm in a place. And I especially find it hard to resist cool crisp mornings followed by sunny afternoons, warm enough to enjoy a Shopska salad outdoors. I hate to say that yet again we hardly spent any time looking around – all the walking about was done at the end of the day in search of a good restaurant. More on that and barter of services in a later post.